Friday, February 17, 2012

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK - FALL 2012

Ralph Lauren
Narciso Rodriguez
Oscar de la Renta
Victoria Beckham
Jason Wu
Prabal Gurung

Marchesa




Zac Posen































Donna Karan
Incluso antes de que New York diera su saque inicial al mes de la moda oficial, seguían ganando terreno diversas especulaciones acerca de la progresiva irrelevancia del formato pasarela en un contexto cultural 2.0. Si hubo una reacción lógica por parte de la industria frente a la aceleración del cambio y la inmediatez que impone la realidad digital, sin duda fue una brusca sacudida para los diseñadores, cada vez más condicionados a sacar provecho de la informática -en vez de ser víctimas de la copia que facilita- y abrir nuevos caminos en sincronía con las posibilidades de la transmisión simultánea de desfiles en alta calidad y la interacción mediante redes como Twitter. Aparte de eso, desde el advenimiento de Tavi Gevinson, también fue imparable la proliferación de blogs de adolescentes encandilados por la moda y autorizados a opinar desde cualquier lugar y grado de conocimiento. A estos factores se suman, entre otros, el exorbitante costo de montar un show de moda y los cuestionamientos acerca de su utilidad neta para el impulso de las marcas. Pese a todo, resulta dificil imaginar la moda sin la pasarela, ¿como se vería una tienda de lujo con sus escaparates vacíos?


- Jason Wu: Sin hacer un calco de su imaginería, el diseñador taiwanés revisitó la China Imperial con un desfile plagado de alusiones a la dinastía Qing, Marlene Dietrich en El Expreso de Shangai y hasta los uniformes del ejército rojo. Una imponente y moderna escuadra de modelos hizo gala de sus chaquetas Mao, hombreras militares, dramáticos bordados sobre capas, brocados, detalles en piel y sinuosos vestidos de seda con pespuntes curvilíneos al estilo del tradicional cheongsam, todo barnizado ampliamente por una paleta temática de rojo, negro y dorado. Una potente propuesta para la informalidad del día y el lujo de la noche, si bien no del todo exenta de la detectable influencia de pasadas presentaciones de otras casas de diseño, como Burberry y Louis Vuitton.
- Prabal Gurung: Otro portento de la camada de talento jóven en NuevaYork que apuesta cada vez más fuerte a la expansión de su negocio, sin descuidar su rica dote creativa. Su ostentoso despliegue de estricta sastrería en negro con intrincados detalles en piel y charol, vestidos estampados y ornamentados en azúl y luego, los destinados a la alfombra roja, como el número de tul cubierto en pedrería azabache, fue un alarde de la creciente maestría de sus tijeras y su excesiva construcción. Audáz, a su vez, la conjunción de prints llamativos -incluídos los reconocibles cráneos de vaca de la pintora Georgia O'Keeffe-, junto a volados, transparencias y voluminosa bijoux. A Gurung también le costó escapar al desliz en la omnipresente estética de Riccardo Tisci, lo cual, pese a ser un alerta, no interfirió en el allure de su propio halo.
- Victoria Beckham: Posh volvió a dar en el blanco al poner en pasarela su propuesta diurna, estrechamente vinculada a su propio entorno familiar, con detalles deportivos e insinuaciones a la vida hogareña, eso sí al modo de su sofisticada superwoman. A sus característicos vestidos de jersey entallados hasta la rodilla y las notorias cremalleras posteriores, la mejor modelo de su propia etiqueta sumó cuellos polo, estratégicas rayas horizontales y simpáticos vestidos cortos con falda de animadora, todo en el mismo equipo de modernas botas cortas y calcetines en interesantes contrastes cromáticos.
- Zac Posen: Una vez retirados del cuadro los detalles superfluos de su colección temática de Japón -lease enormes fajas obi de estampado kimono y algún dudoso clutch en forma de pagoda-, la propuesta de Posen fue inobjetable en su familiar registro drama-glam. Con aires y dignidad artesanal de Haute-Couture, desfilaron trajes-falda de precisa construcción, elaborados vestidos de cocktail en telas suntuosas como los de satén duquesa champagne y la falla de seda para el cierre teatral de un strapless de gala en azúl medianoche.
- Donna Karan: Tras un paréntesis inicial con pasadas de su línea Casual Luxe, la diseñadora sacó a relucir el célebre sello de su etiqueta, con sus característicos vestidos envolventes en jersey junto a trajes sastre de escultural pulcritud. La referencia inmediata y agradablemente trasladable a ambientes actuales era el viejo Hollywood, muy encarnado en la figura de Marlene Dietrich: El Ángel Azúl sobrevoló la pasarela con las rigurosas chaquetas de esmoquin, la faja de frac, el chaqué clásico -nunca tan sexy-, las hombreras, la raya diplomática en lana gris marengo para vestidos de cocktail, los tajos frontales y las seductoras galeritas.
- Oscar de la Renta: Sin desestimar su rol de excelso proveedor de lujo textil para su fiel y madura cohorte de Park Avenue, de la Renta apunta a expandir la órbita de su clientela con particular insistencia en el ala jóven. Y qué mejor armamento que una precisa rampa de marketing y un ramillete de looks indeclinables para las it-girls de la ciudad. Empezando por la profusión de alta joyería, no sólo en diademas, apliques colgantes y broches rutilantes, sino también en el llamativo estampado digital de piedras preciosas y perlas, y siguiendo por los sweaters con ochos y los mini-vestidos de cocktail en azucaradas sedas en rosa y celeste, hasta culminar en la alfombra roja o en la gala de debutantes con preciosos vestidos de tul cuyo drapeado no escondía del todo las piernas de las modelos.
- Narciso Rodriguez: La rama minimalista del diseñador rara vez se aparta del lado sensual, un área que domina al punto de no desvirtuar la simple cualidad de sus diseños ni siquiera cuando su construcción proviene de un remix geométrico de texturas y retazos, como en esta ocasión. El resultado siempre es una silueta perfecta aún al rebasar los límites de su estética habitual con abrigos de volúmenes inesperados, con vibrantes tonos bordó, naranja ladrillo, verde limón y oliva en vestidos de ruedo irregular y otros ensamblados en caprichoso contraste de telas como lana, tweed, algodón encerado y seda. Una oferta que incluso habría convencido a la sofisticada Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, una de las musas predilectas del diseñador cubano.
- Marchesa: La dupla creativa compuesta por Georgina Chapman y Keren Craig llamó su fuente de inspiración a la pintura A Soul Brought to Heaven del pintor francés William-Adolphe Bouguereau para su barroca colección otoñal. El reflejo de la obra estaba en la reproducción couture de alas y las plumas por doquier en el lienzo de vestidos cortos de brocado y largos de gasa y encaje vaporosos, más las alusiones al más allá con sutiles bordados anatómicos sobre tul adherente. Desde los aniñados vestidos con capa de suntuoso encaje bordado hasta los trajes dignos de una noche oscarizada como el despampanante strapless drapeado en lamé dorado, casi cada pasada era para el decadente ensueño de la niña interior.
- Ralph Lauren: Uno de los sumos pontífices del glamour americano de alta cuna volvió a saludar a otra de sus tantas pasiones por el buen vivir: el vestuario cinematográfico. De allí los rastros dispersos que quedaban de su Gran Gatsby primaveral, con sweaters de rombos aquí, y vestidos flapper y tipo columna con bordados Art-Decó allá. Pero a su vez, el diseñador presentó sus respetos al aristócrata británico con trajes y abrigos cruzados Príncipe de Gales en tela glen-plaid y el tilde colorido de mitones y foulards. También estaban los trajes de tres piezas de corte masculino en más campestres cuadros escoceses, mezclados con tweeds, y los de fino terciopelo en azúl y bordó. Varios de estos looks, llevados con bombines. La clase maestra de elegancia prosiguió naturalmente a la sección post-atardecer en negro y dorado con vestidos bordados de canutillos, escotes cubiertos en pedrería metalizada, estolas de plumas salpicadas de dorado y un par de lánguidos vestidos en satén fucsia.


Even before New York officially kicked off fashion month, various speculations about the increasing irrelevance of the catwalk format in a cultural context 2.0 continued gaining ground. If there was a logical reaction by the industry against the acceleration of change and the immediate nature of digital reality, it certainly was a sharp jolt to the designers, increasingly conditioned to take advantage of information technology -instead of being victims of the copy it facilitate-, and open new paths in sync with the possibilities of simultaneous transmission of shows in high quality and interaction through networks such as Twitter. Other than that, since the advent of Tavi Gevinson, was also unstoppable the proliferation of teen-bloggers dazzled by fashion and allowed to opinion from any position and degree of knowledge. To these factors add up, among others, the exorbitant cost of setting up a fashion show and questions about its net profit for the boost of brands. Nevertheless, it is hard to imagine fashion without the runway, how would look a luxury store with empty storefronts?

- Jason Wu: Without making a carbon copy of its imagery, the Taiwan-born designer revisited Imperial China with a fashion show full of allusions to the Qing dynasty, Marlene Ditrich's character in Shanghai Express, and even the uniforms of the Red Army. A striking, modern fleet of models showed off his Mao jackets, military epaulettes, dramatic embroidery on coats, brocade, leather details and sinuous silk dresses with curvilinear stitching, in the style of traditional cheongsam, all widely varnished by a themed palette of red, black and gold. A strong proposal for informality of the day and luxury of the night, although not entirely free from the detectable influence of past presentations from other design houses such as Burberry and Louis Vuitton.
- Prabal Gurung: Another portent of the crop of young talent in New York that's making ever higher bids on the expansion of his business, without forgetting his rich creative dowry. His ostentatious display of strict all-black tailoring with intricate details in skin and patent-leather, blue-printed and ornate dresses, and then those for the red carpet, as the tulle number covered on rhinestones, was a boast of the growing expertise of his scissors and excessive construction. Audacious, in turn, the combination of bold prints -including those recognizable cow skulls of painter Georgia O'Keeffe- along with ruffles, transparencies and bulky bijoux. Gurung, also struggled to escape slipping in the ubiquitous Riccardo Tisci aesthetics, which, despite being an alert, did not interfere with the allure of his own halo.
- Victoria Beckham: One more time, Posh hit the target , by bringing her daytime proposal to runway light, closely linked to her own family environment with sporty details and hints to home life, yet in her sophisticated superwoman-mode. To her signature fitted knee-length sheath dresses in jersey and the notorious back zippers, the best model for her own label added polo necks, strategic horizontal stripes and cute frocks with cheerleader skirt, all teamed up with modern booties and socks in interesting chromatic contrasts .
- Zac Posen: Once removed from the picture the superfluous details of his thematic collection of Japan -i.e. huge obi sashes in kimono patterns and a questionable pagoda-shaped clutch-, the proposal was unobjectionable Posen in his familiar drama-glam record. With air of Haute-Couture and handmade dignity, sharply tailored skirt-suits paraded with cocktail dresses in sumptuous fabrics like champagne duchesse satin, and silk faille for the theatrical closing of a strapless gown in midnight blue.
- Donna Karan: After an initial break past of her Casual Luxe line, the designer brought out the famous seal of her label, with her trademark wraparound jersey dresses next to tailored suits of sculptural neatness. The immediate reference and nicely transferable to current environments was old Hollywood, very incarnated in the figure of Marlene Dietrich: The Blue Angel flew over the catwalk with the rigorous tuxedo jackets, the cummerbund, the classic morning coat -sexier than ever-, the shoulder pads, the pinstripes for charcoal wool cocktail dresses, the frontal slits and the seductive mini top hats.
- Oscar de la Renta: Without neglecting his role as provider of luxury textiles for his faithful and mature cohort of Park Avenue, de la Renta aims to expand the orbit of his clientele, with particular emphasis on the young wing. And what better weapon than a precise marketing ramp and a bunch of indeclinable looks for the it-girls of the city. Starting with the profusion of fine jewelry, not only in actual tiaras, dangling crystals and glittering brooches, but also in the striking digital prints of gems and pearls, and following the cable-knit sweaters and silk cocktail frocks in sugary pink and blue, until culminating on the red carpet or debutante ball with precious tulle ballgowns, whose drapes did not hide completely the legs of the models.
- Narciso Rodriguez: The designer's minimalist branch rarely departs from the sensual side, an area he dominates to the point of not distorting the simple quality of his designs even when its construction comes from a geometric remix of textures and pieces, like this time. The result is always a perfect silhouette, even when exceeding the limits of his usual aesthetic with unexpected volumes in coats, with vibrant tones -burgundy, brick orange, chartreuse and olive green- in irregular hem dresses and others, spliced ​​together in whimsical contrasting fabrics like wool, tweed, waxy-coated cotton and silk. A offer that would have even convinced the sophisticated Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, one of the Cuban designer's favorite muses.
- Marchesa: The creative duo composed by Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig called his source of inspiration to the painting A Soul Brought to Heaven by French artist William-Adolphe Bouguereau for their baroque autumn collection . A reflection of the oeuvre was in the couture reproduction of wings and feathers everywhere on the canvas of brocade frocks and long sheer chiffon and lace dresses, plus allusions to the afterlife with subtle anatomical embroidery on fitting tulle . From the girlish caped mini-dresses in lavish embroidered lace to the eveningwear numbers worthy of Oscar-winning night as the stunning strapless in gold lame, almost every pass was for the decadent dream of the child within.
- Ralph Lauren: One of the high priests of American highborn glamour greeted again another of his many passions for the good life: the film costume. Hence the scattered traces that remained of his Great Gatsby spring with argyle sweaters here, and flapper dresses and Art-Deco embroidered column type's there. But in turn, the designer presented his respects to British aristocrat with Prince of Wales glen-plaid double-breasted suits and coats with colorful accents in mittens and scarves. There were also the three-piece suits of masculine cut in more rustic plaids, mixed with tweeds, and the ones in  blue and burgundy velvet. Several of these looks, worn with bowlers hats. The elegant master class went naturally into the post-sunset gold and black section with bugle beads embroidered dresses, jeweled necklines, golden-tipped feather stoles and a couple of languid gowns in fuchsia satin.

Photo Credit: Style.com

7 comments:

  1. Hello MaJo!!

    WOW! Great work girl!

    I love Oscar de la Renta, and Donna Karan.

    Regards to the family.

    XOXO to you,


    Estela

    ReplyDelete
  2. Holaaaa,
    Qué tal estás mi amiga? Hace tanto tiempo que no hemos hablado, y la verdad es que no vi tu nuevo ¨post¨ por eso no hay comentarios de mi en este post, gracias por pasar por mi blog,
    eres tan amable como siempre. Ohhhhh no sé porqué sigo tratando hablar en español cuanto hablo tan mal. Me temo que hablo tan mal que no entiendes ni una palabra de lo que te digo.
    So i am going to switch it off back to english before you want to shout yourself,
    truth be told the political and economical situation here in Greece isn't the best we could get, its really really hard to find a decent job and we need to constantly pay for bills and taxes in order to restore our economy, which goes down down down like a ship that's about to sink and no one does anything to save it.
    You see that's the case with my country, our politicians and some of the people living here knew that Greece was a sinking ship but they did nothing to stop it, they kept stealing money and not paying their taxes, building houses without paying any money for them to the goverment,
    everyone wanted to have lots of money but never give up to their country,
    unfortunately 50% of greeks think only of their own lives and no one else.
    so we are are going down now, and others like me have to pay taxes again and again and again in order to help our country.
    I am highly dissapointed by this country, my only wish is to gain some money and leave the hell out of here, before it is compeltely destroyed without any way to fix it. I mean how long will i have to pay taxes for things i never did? how long will i have to be unemployed? i am now studying and i am about to finish college and i am so worried that i will never ever find a decent job here.
    i am not sure about what you've heard about our country, but we are doing downnnn, and its such a shame because its a beautiful country and if we were a tad smart we could gain millions by promoting our islands and gaining lots of turists.
    i am not sure if you've heard about the events happening near our parlament house a few days ago with buildings being burned down and streets destroyed, but its all true, they burned everything down. i am really afraid to walk around that area, and its the central part of athens for God's sake.
    Apart of our economical and political problems we are full of people with african, middle eastern and asian origin, and its really dangerous walking around the center at night since some of them sell drugs and God knows what else.
    i mean i am not a racist or anything and this people are welcomed here, IF they find a decent job instead of stealing and selling drugs.
    ouuufff that's all i have to say, if u want to ask me anything else just send me a message or contact me via lureofthedarkside@hotmail.com
    besos desde Grecia,
    Marianne

    ReplyDelete
  3. love the picks of photos!

    Also, thank you so much for the lovely comments =)
    @MyLyfeMyStory

    My Lyfe ; My Story

    ReplyDelete
  4. great post! loved oscar de la renta show!
    check out my latest post
    www.fashionfootprints.blogspot.com
    xxxx

    ReplyDelete
  5. thank you so much for your visit :) I'm following*

    I'm loving Prabal Gurung :)

    http://behindcatiseyes.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete

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